Charles Campion

2009 London Restaurant Guide

Hix burst onto the scene in the early summer of 2008. It is a remarkable place, not just because it is Mark Hix’s first solo venture (although he is a veteran of the London scene, having headed Le Caprice, The Ivy, Scott’s and J Sheekey) but rather due to his unerring ability to put his finger on the mood of the times. This restaurant felt comfortable, confident and old-established from the very first week. The menu is a roll call of all that is best in traditional, seasonal, British food. Start with a magnificent salad of French beans and ox cheek – contrasting textures, rich flavour and a simple dressing; another salad brings together pennywort, beetroot and Little Wallops goat’s cheese; there may be a stellar rabbit brawn; fresh asparagus simply cooked; or outrageously good De Beauvoir smoked salmon ‘Hix cure’, which comes from a smoker in Mark Hix’s back garden! Mains range from a grilled gilthead sea bream to mutton chop curry, or a hanger steak served with baked bone marrow. Special praise must be reserved for the beef flank and oyster pie with it’s ambrosial gravy. There is also the option of two diners sharing a whole Woolley Park Farm free-range chicken with wild garlic sauce. The important details are right here, from the battered assortment of mismatched silver serving dishes, to the unaggressively priced wine list and friendly service.